Working or starting a business in France?

La Defense, one of the major commercial centers in Paris

 
This will be one of the hardest visas to obtain. It is a very detailed process, and I am just providing a general overview.  There are several sites that can help guide you through the myriad of paperwork, such as the "Consult France."  First of all, if you are EU citizen, meaning a citizen of any one of the "EU members"  as well as citizens from Andorra, Lichtenstein, and Monaco, you can legally work in any EU country. This article will focus more on Americans trying to find employment in France.

Because of the relatively high unemployment rate, to date 9.6% (wiki), the French want to ensure first and foremost that jobs are given to French citizens.  The French believe that with the influx of immigrants taking any job they can get, so they can get into the system and eventually benefit from the extensive social services, they are becoming quite restrictive of who can enter France on a work visa. And, especially now with the influx of Tunisians from civil war torn Tunisia, they are trying to close their borders.   France is very worried that at some point, it could bankrupt their social services.

So, the hierarchy in finding an employee at this point is: French first, EU citizens second, and then the rest of the world. If an employer can provide proof that they are unable to fill a position by the first two, then they can seek out foreigners outside of the EU countries.  So, net-net an employer must prove that an “American candidate” is more qualified than any one in France or an EU country.  Therefore, the chances for a highly specialized and skilled employee will have better odds.

Work permit:  Getting a work permit or visa is quite difficult. I would recommend seeking out an international company that have branches or offices in France.  Hence, they will do all the necessary paperwork to get your working visa.

You must first obtain a contract draft from a French or a foreign company in France. The employer in France files an application with the appropriate administration for approval, then a visa can be issued by a consulate of France in the U.S.  US citizens must obtain their visa IN the US and cannot receive it in France.

If you are hired by a French company, keep in mind you will be operating under their business practices.  They will take care of all your paperwork; however, what differs is that you will get a final contract after your probationary period.   Now here’s the catch, you have to negotiate a good salary up front, since salaries generally remain the same throughout your tenure.  In the US, pay scales are based on a myriad of different factors such as skill set, experience, education etc. However, the paradigm changes in France.  The French have a different pay scale based on where they went to school, Polytechnique Paris being one of the most prestigious since it is quite difficult to get in.   For example, you could have 5-employees doing the exact SAME job, but their salary pay scale is different because where they went to school dictates their potential earnings. So, since the French are not familiar with some of the U.S. “Ivy” league schools, it is important for you to ensure they know that they are hiring you from e.g., Harvard, Stanford or an equivalent, if applicable.  And, you must negotiate as high as possible upfront.  Because it will be near impossible to renegotiate later in your contract. The general attitude is if you didn’t negotiate upfront and are not happy with your salary structure, than go somewhere else. They don’t believe in retaining employees, since there are people right behind you seeking your job.  However, being sponsored by an employer and obtaining a French working visa does not mean you have to stay with that company. In fact, on the contrary, you have the right to seek employment throughout France.

Also, as I mentioned earlier, education and what school you went to plays a major factor in your ability to move up in the company. For example, only those with specific education are eligible to apply for a managerial job.  Typically, Americans being hired here have the education to pursue managerial jobs, if so desired.  I have French friends who are IT developers in France at the top level of their careers and are stagnant because they don't have that specific degree entitling them to pursue a managerial job. So, basically they're stuck.

However, there is a solution to the salary stagnation (not the education limitation), basically "company-jumping", moving from company to company.  Generally speaking most French do not want to do this, because even though you may have negotiated a higher salary at a new company, you basically start all over with a new probationary period and lack of seniority etc.  Remember, French are resistant to change.  One benefit though for a long-term employee is that it is near impossible to fire someone after their probationary period.

“Auto-entrepreneurs” or “micro-entreprise”:  There is actually only a slight differences between auto-entrepreneurs visa vs. micro-entreprise, since the fiscal status is the same.  Most of the characteristics are about the same. In fact, the tax status etc. applied to a micro-entreprise also apply to auto-entrepreneurs.  The only real differences between them relates to the business registration, tax and social security payment formalities and, to some extent, business rates.

Which do you apply for? Typically if you want to start a business such as a private limited company in France, most people apply for the auto-entrepreneurs, whereas the “micro-entreprise” is more for small businesses or  individuals wanting to set up a “one-person” shop, e.g., an English tutor.  There are large tax differences between the two. Your French tax adviser or lawyer can help you make the best decision.

Here's an excellent link to help walk you through that process, "Starting a business in France."

If you want to start an entrepreneurial business,  you need to obtain a Carte de Commerçant étranger (Foreign Trader’s Card), you cannot run a  commercial business without this card. See "Consult France--FTC."

Student visa:  From my understanding, it is not difficult to come and study in France, since they highly value education and are proud of their academics.  There is a catch, you have to guarantee $600 a month to show financial support; however, the visa will allow you to work temporarily (60% of 35-hours), most students I’ve known either work as au pairs or English teachers.  See "Consult France--Student Visa" for more detailed information.

In some cases, if you are coming to France to pursue a “specialty” or "highly skilled" degree such as in IT (technology), part of the educational program is to intern at one of the many companies. If that company is in need of your special skill set, they will sponsor you and do all the necessary paperwork to hire you.

Marriage and Pacs:  It goes without saying that if you marry a French person, you are eligible to obtain an immigrant visa and allow you to obtain French citizenship. This also allows you to work. There are many benefits to becoming a dual citizenship, e.g., unlimited stay in each country, eligibility to schools at lower costs, etc.  Unlike the US with its draconian and discriminatory DOMA policy, a French PACS (US equivalent of domestic partners) IS recognized as means for obtaining the equivalent immigration rights a spouse (marriage) would confer.  So if you become a “domestic-partner” Pacsé this will allow you to work in France, see "Pac"..  The paperwork is just as plentiful as with other forms of visa.  The difference between the two is that if you separate as a pacsé couple, you simply provide a document to the “prefecture” stating you are no longer a couple, whereas divorce can take years in France.  Also, if you are a same-sex couple, you are not eligible to adopt children.

Language:  Although there are many international companies that conduct business in English, it goes without saying that your chances of finding a job in France are much better if you are bi-lingual in both English and French, and if you know a 3rd language your hiring potential just went up a couple of notches.  This is not only verbal, but written. I’ve known Americans that can speak fluent French; however, their written skills are poor and they have actually lost out on jobs for this reason.  

Learning French has some practical applications

In Summary:  I get asked this question a lot. It’s not an easy answer since there are just too many variables. Many young people come to France thinking they can just live here and find under the table work, and live carefree.  I can’t begin to tell you how often this strategy has failed. There are au pair jobs for families that want their children to be bilingual in English and French, but almost all will ask for "working papers."

The other complaint that I hear from ex-pats is that taxes are very high and salaries are very low; however, their social service structure such as health-care is fantastic. (see my article on healtcare in France).  The reality, healthcare is one less worry and expense employees have to think about. Plus minimum vacation starts at 6-weeks and an average bank employee gets 9-weeks of vacation. So, it's a trade-off.  I may not agree with their business paradigm as to salary structure, or lack of potential to grow within the company, but the trade off is a simpler better quality of life.  The US usually tops the list when it comes to productivity (France is usually in the top 10), but we are workaholics and we are also a consumer society, so we need to earn more money to pay for more "goods" that the French can live without, and we are the country that pays the most out-of-pocket for healthcare!

Although I have never personally gone through this experience since I am retired, I obtained much of this information from friends and through research.  Bonne chance!

San Pellegrino Worlds 50 Best Restaurants

René Redzepi's Chef Extraordinaire "Noma"

 

Noma named best restaurant in the world for 2nd straight year !

 

 

 

 

For details and complete list, click on this link  "The world's 50 best" .  

For complete scoring and ranking changes, click this link "Detailed Rankings".

Congratulations to the winners!

A La Biche au Bois -- Restaurant review

45,avenue Ledru-Rollin,

75012 Paris, France

01 43 43 34 38

Metro: Gare de Lyon

Rating Standards: 4-Stars = Extraordinary; 3-Stars = Excellent; 2-Stars = Good; 1-Star = Fair; NO stars = Poor
€ = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)
1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-75); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-80); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (80+)

  3.75 - Stars..............................................€...................................................3 - Bells

A dear friend, Gina recommended this restaurant. She's been going for a couple of years, and has nothing but praises for it. So, a group of us decided to go. It's not too far from the Gare de Lyon which has the famous opulent  "Le Train Bleu"  restaurant and bar. So, if you have time, I suggest stopping there first for just a drink to enjoy the most incredible interior artwork on the ceilings and walls and then continue on to "A La Biche Au Bois".

The restaurant is quite small, but felt really comfortable and cozy. Reservations are a must since it appears to be a very popular restaurant with the tourists and the locals alike. The menu was quite extensive.

What surprised me most was the price. It was 26.90 euros for the pre-fix menu, which consisted of an entree, plat, a cheese plate, and then dessert. Great deals in Paris can be had, but typically the food is mediocre at best. This was the exception, as you will see from our assessment.

As you can see from the menu to the left, there was quite a nice selection of entrées to choose from. So we first perused the entrees before heading to the main course (plats).

Our wait-person told us that they had 2-specials tonight. Joue de Boeuf (beef cheeks) and the agneau, which are lamb chops.  So, we all ordered a variety of dishes from specials to "mains-stays":

Gina, ordered the Les Oeufs durs mayonnaise".  It was sort of like deviled eggs, but in place of the "deviled" part was a home-made rich mayonnaise.  It was very simple, and just very nice. Giving you an opportunity to truly taste the mayonnaise.  Jack doesn't particularly care for eggs nor mayonnaise, but the rest of us thought it was very good.

Jack and I started with the "entrée du jour", the entrée of the day. It was the Chef's special terrine. I must say it was really nice. It had a combination of different meats, fois gras covered in a puff pastry over a nice bed of greens. It also had bits of pistachios in it, which I adored.

Marie had the La terrine de lapin" a rabbit terrine. over a bed of greens and vegetables and said it was an excellent start.

For our plats or mains, Gina ordered her favorite mainstay, "coq au vin". It came in a hot pot with what looked like a whole rooster. Although it was for one person, you could've easily shared it.  We all had a taste, and agreed that it was delicious. On the other hand I thought it may have been a bit too "salty" for my liking. But Gina thought it was perfect. Net-net it was very good.





Jack and I had the "joue de boeuf" beef cheeks. It was really, really delicious, albeit very rich. Cheeks are probably one of my favorite meats overlooked in the carnivore world.  In my anxiousness to taste it, I forgot to take a picture of it. All I can say is, it was delicious, extremely tender, the sauce was very nice.  We had the mashed potatoes and fries accompanying our meals to absorb a lot of the richness.  If I could compare it to anything, I would probably compare it to beef tongue, for it's soft texture. I would definitely order this again!

Marie had the grilled lamb chops. She said they were really good. Not dry, not greasy, it was cooked well and quite tasty.

Susan had the "Le filet de boeuf poele au poivre", pepper steak. Susan enjoyed it a lot, since it was cooked perfectly and the sauce was a nice accompaniment.








Our meals followed with a cheese course. I was impressed at the variety of cheeses they had, from Chevre to Camemberts, Bries, Cantals etc.,  the selection was awesome. Feeling quite full and knowing later that our dinner also included dessert, most of us decided to go light on the cheese. Whoever their vendor is, I say they're a keeper.

Now the desserts came. Marie and Gina ordered the "Ile flottante" (poached meringue) with a creme caramel and creme anglaise. I'm not a fan of this dessert, because to me it feels like I'm eating air (e.g., cotton candy) with sauce. However, both of them adored this dessert for it's lightness counterbalanced with the rich sauces.

Jack had the special tarte au fruit" accompanied with some poached apples, vanilla ice cream, and chantilly (whipped cream) atop a cream anglaise.  Jack said this too was very good.

Susan and I shared a creme caramel. It was very light, but very tasteful, and a great ending to a fantastic meal.

All the desserts are made on the premises.







This restaurant has been around for a few years, and has certainly been written up a few times. It's owned and run by a husband and wife team Bertrand and Céline.  The staff aren't by any means extremely friendly by American standards, but they're extremely courteous and very, very efficient. I heard Bertrand is extremely funny and jovial and usually makes the rounds with the customers, but unfortunately for us he was not around that evening.

I'm one of the few people living in Paris that can find French food boring and tedious, but I have to say when the food is good, and the price is right I'd go often. The food is by no means light nor for vegetarians, nor even "Pescetarian", it's pretty heavy on the meat, but you get alot of it, so go hungry! And, although their wine list is small, it's sufficient. There really isn't much to complain about this restaurant, other than the Chef's slightly heavy hand with the salt. Would I go to this restaurant again, absolutely. Would I recommend it to friends, absolutely.

It's a WINNER! and at these prices you can't afford to miss it.

Is theft on the rise in Paris?

There’s been a lot of news lately about muggings on the metro. Young gangs of 2 or 3 are roaming around the Paris metro or the  RER  looking for vulnerable passengers. And, there’s also theft happening around town, especially around the canals (e.g., Canal St. Martin) and parks. It appears that they are looking for purses in the hopes of finding cash, and if they’re lucky also jewelry.  Cameras are also sought after, but the biggest “cash cow” of all are smart-phones, The French calling it the "Iphone-effect".   

Since 2009, with the increase uses of smart-phones, especially the Iphones, there’s been a 40% rise in crime to date and 53% of violent crimes  on the metro are tied to smart-phones. There is a huge market for smart-phones in the African countries. Apparently, stolen smart-phones can be sold at a premium, since there is such a shortage and demand is high.

In comparison to other major cities, especially when comparing Paris to major US cities, Paris pick-pockets are not violent, in other words, they won’t pull a gun on you as they would for example in the U.S.  They may knock you down and punch you for an Iphone, but they won’t kill you for one. They may also threaten you with a knife or brandish “poings américains,” the French name for brass knuckles. In those cases, give up your valuable(s), why take a chance that they may use their knife or brass knuckles on you. Is your smart-phone or valuables more important than your life?

Paris is a relatively safe city, primarily because private guns are still difficult to obtain. Near impossible.  However, Paris is ranked as one of the 10-major cities for pickpockets.

I’m not trying to scare you, but I want to give you some tips on being safe and aware; hence, enjoy your stay. All too often the tourist will become so enthralled with the beauty of the sights and scenes that they forget about personal safety and their belongings.

Although this attached newscast is in French, you’ll get the idea:

(Press here to "The link" if you are unable to play the video)

In general, always be aware of your surroundings. Here are a few tips:

Credit cards, using ATMs and storing documents:

• Make photocopies of your credit cards, and pertinent documents such as phone numbers etc., especially a photocopy of your passport. I also recommend you store them virtually.

• When touring Paris, unless absolutely necessary, leave your passport at the Hotel safe, or in a safe place in your apartment. Carry a photocopy if you need to. I find a driver’s license works well for identification, and driver’s licenses are much easier to replace than a passport.

• Only carry the credit cards you need. Leave a credit card in your hotel safe or apartment as a back-up.

• When using ATMs always, always conceal the keypad with your free hand. Please note that if the ATM sucks your card in and does not return it, this is not normal, it's pretty certain that it's been tampered with, immediately go into the bank and notify a banker. I prefer using the ATM's located inside the bank, less risk.  However, if you must use the ATM on the street and you are with a companion, make sure your companion is on the look-out. If you are alone and  someone is asking you a question, they are more than likely going to try and rob you. Cancel your transaction and get out of there quick.

• Although not fool-proof, for men wear your wallet in your front pocket, better if you have a money belt, or one of those conceal money bags you can wrap around your neck and under your shirt/blouse. It’s awkward when you need money, so place some money where it’s easily accessible. And, if you need more cash, go somewhere discreet e.g., to the restroom to replenish what you’ve spent.

• Do not carry a lot of cash, carry what you need for that day. Credit cards are accepted almost everywhere.

• When carrying purses, make sure that your purse has a zipper that can be shut tight. I’ve even known women to use a little suitcase combination lock to connect the zippers. A great company that sells "theft-proof" bags is pacsafe.    

Notice the small combination lock on the zipper, it is also a deterrent

• Back-packs are such an easy target for thieves. If you are going to wear it on your back, do not place anything valuable in it. It is very common for thieves to bump into you and you think it’s an innocent bump in a crowded area, when in fact they’ve already gone through your back-pack and picked all your valuables. In a crowded area, wear your back-pack in front of you as if to cradle a baby.

• If possible, conceal cameras in unidentifiable camera cases until needed. And, if you have a large camera and must carry it, make sure it’s securely wrapped around your neck or shoulder with a slash proof strap and always be aware where it is. Small cameras should be stored in your pocket, purse or pocket, until needed. 

• If you must use your smart-phone on the street, do it discreetly. And, if you are with a companion(s), make sure s/he is on the look-out since you will more than likely be pre-occupied.

• Keep your hotel/apartment keys in your pocket and not in your backpack or purse; hence, if it gets stolen, and you have reference to an address with your keys, guess what… 

Around the metro or RER or public transportation:

• The RER train from the airport to downtown is infamous for pickpockets. If you are flying in from the US, and are not familiar with the RER or just plain tired from the long flight, but you don’t want to pay a cab, there are several airport shuttles such as “Parishuttle” and you can book through "Viator", these shuttles are very affordable and will drop you off in front of your apartment or hotel.

• Theft not only occurs easily in the metros, but also while you’re attempting to buy “carnet” (metro-tickets) at one of the machines in the metro. I've heard many tales of people being so preoccupied trying to figure out the machines that they didn’t even know someone was behind them rustling through their back-pack etc.  My recommendation is if you are alone, put everything (purse, camera, etc) in front of you, and do not flash money. Also, if you are with a companion, always have your companion stand behind you sort of facing outward, acting as a discreet look-out!

• When waiting for a train, always be aware of your surroundings. I prefer to have my back up against the wall, or if there are seats, sit, even if the train is coming in 3-minutes. It's much more difficult to be robbed if you're against a wall or sitting. Throw your stereotypes out the door. A lot of pickpockets look very respectful. Men in suits, little old ladies, and even 8-9 year old kids. I actually saw a well-groomed man pickpocketing a large open purse. He was immediately caught leaving the train by a plain clothes policeman . Although too few, there are plain clothes cops around the metros.

• Avoid using your smart-phones on the metro or any public transportation.  As of late, there are now signages on the metros and buses in the shape of an Iphone in French, English, Chinese, Japanese and Spanish basically saying to be careful, some people may be jealous you have one and will attempt to steal it.

Taken on a bus, warning passengers not to use their smart-phones on the bus. NOTE: the warnings look like Iphones

• Thefts occur mostly by the doors of the metro trains, primarily to facilitate an escape. Although not always practical, try to go towards the middle of the train, and of course if there’s a seat, sit.  I once had a woman on an empty train sit right next to me, some men would find this flattering, sorry doesn’t work for me, man or woman. I was extremely suspicious and just stared at her. She soon left, and went to the next train to try her luck there.

• Line 1 is infamous as the “pickpockets line” since it is the one route on the metro that hits all the major tourist spots (e.g., Louvre, Concord etc.). I once had a male friend that put his wallet in his front pocket and he had a chain that attached his wallet to his belt as added security. As he was leaving the train, he noticed his empty wallet dangling from his belt. So, if you’re on a crowed train, always put you hand in your pocket over your wallet, and for a woman always have your purse in front of you!

Cafés and Restaurants

• Outdoor cafes are a prime, prime targets for pickpockets, especially if you are at the front most tables. Tourist get so careless about leaving their phones or cameras on the table, or their purses at their side or behind them. It’s so easy to just snatch them and take off. Always secure your purse to your shoulder, and although not fool-proof, hold onto your phone or camera or place it in a safe place. If you are with a companion, ask them to hold/watch your belongings if you need to go to e.g., the restroom etc.

• Indoor cafes/bistros/brasseries etc., just because you’re indoors does not mean you’re immune to theft. In a lot of areas, e.g., Latin Quarter, where tourist are abundant, many people walk in pretending to check out the restaurants when their real intention is to look for valuables carelessly laying around. This is also true at cocktail bars and wine bars, where they can get extremely busy.

• At outdoor cafes, never, ever put your purse, camera case etc. under your seat, even if you have the strap wrapped around the back of your chair. The person behind you can easily pick your valuables clean.

A purse not zipped shut

  
 Touring:

• Often in crowded areas, e.g., Notre Dame, gypsies will come up to you and ask you if speak English. Always, say ‘NO’! The intent is that you read a message asking for money. Sometimes, when you’re so intent on reading the sob-sob narrative in English, they have an accomplice rummaging through your purse etc.

• Montmarte, Sacre Coeur, there are groups of men trying to convince you to have a string intricately tied (e.g., braided) around your wrist, “magic”. Although some are legit in wanting to get paid for the little “entertainment”, some use it as a distraction to steal your belongings.

• Always, always be aware of your surroundings. All too often tourist become so fixated on getting that perfect photo that they forget that someone is even near them trying to lift your wallet etc.

• Some female tourist wanting to keep in fashion with the French women, will wear heels. Women with heels are a great target, since you can be easily tripped, nor can you run, in other words you’re vulnerable. Always wear comfortable shoes that you can’t trip in and you can run in.

• Gold ring scam.  Men or women pretending to find a gold ring is one of the oldest Parisian scams. The person will ask you, typically in English, if the ring belongs to you, of course you say no. Then that person will say, since e.g., I don’t want it you can have it perhaps for a couple of Euros. Always say no and be firm about it. I’ve actually seen beautifully coiffed middle-aged woman performing this scam. 

• Another scam is to have something "accidentally" spilled on you, like water or ice cream. The perpetrator will approach you and offer to help clean you up. In doing so, another person then pickpockets you while you are distracted. 

• Never-ever, follow a stranger who wants to show you some great find etc.

NOTE: In all of the above cases, never, ever put anything down even for a second. It can be whisked away faster than you can say "faster."

Combating the “Iphone effect”:

The French are trying to find ways to make your smart-phones inoperable once stolen. In doing so, will make stealing an Iphone less attractive.

Many of us with smart-phones carry a lot of information that we do not want thieves to get a hold of. There are apps .e.g, “find my Iphone app” for your smart-phones to not only track your stolen phone, but also to wipe it clean of all information. This article with a video tutorial explains it all. "Security for your cell phone".  


Apartments:

It goes without saying that when leaving your "vacation-rental" apartment, secure it. Regardless of how warm it is outside, close and lock all windows. It doesn't hurt to close the shades. It doesn't matter what floor you're on, the topmost floors are also vulnerable since burglars can easily swing into an open window from the rooftop, and escape through the front door. Apartments on the ground floor and higher floors with balconies that can easily be scaled are particularly vulnerable. In fact, a friend's neighbor in a 4th floor apartment was recently burglarized. Apparently the burlgar saw that the window was slightly ajar, he scaled the balconies undetected since most of the tenants were at work, and voila, jackpot. Secure your valuables in a safe, if available, or keep them well hidden.


In summary:

It’s not difficult to spot a tourist in Paris. Try to blend in. Don’t call attention to yourself. Don't be a "loud" American, most Parisians are soft-spoken. Don’t walk around holding an obvious map. Most Parisians, even Parisians born and raised in the city carry a "Paris Practique" street guide (book containing maps of streets in Paris) that can be purchased at Monoprix or a book store . Wear your purse or “murse” wrapped around your neck and worn to your side where your hand and arms are.  Although men wearing shorts was a clear sign, saying “I’m a tourist,” more and more French men wear shorts in the summer, but typically below the knee, sort of looks like “Capri” pants.

Don’t be surprised if no-one comes to your defense if you are being attacked. As a general rule, the French do not want to get involved to protect their own safety. Always, always call the police or have someone call for you. There are many surveillance cameras in the e.g., metro and the police will have a better opportunity to capture the criminal with information you provide.

And, if you still get pickpocket, here's a  "check-list" of what you need to do.  And, always check if your e.g., purse etc. has been return to the "lost and found" called  "Centre des Objets Trouvés de la Préfecture de Police de Paris" (address in the "check-list"). A friend's purse was stolen at CDG airport, and she recently retrieved her purse from the "Centre de objets", albeit minus the cash.

With that said, don't be paranoid, just be aware! Be on the offensive, not defensive.

This link says it all... "Pick-pocket scams"