About

"The reluctant Francophile..."

My husband Jack has always wanted to live in Paris and learn French. I thought it would be good for him to achieve his life time dream. Hence, we moved to Paris in 2008. My first year was difficult. I started "missives" to relieve some stress and chronicle my life so friends back in the US could read what I am experiencing. I currently write about my food and travel experiences, which is my passion.

It is definitely a challenge to live here, but each year it gets easier, and quite enjoyable, in large part because I value friendships over locale. I have a love/hate relationship with Paris as do most Parisians, mais La vie est belle (but life is good)!

Thursday, April 3, 2014

Postiche -- Restaurant Review



64 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau
75001 Paris, France
Tel: 
01 42 36 14 90
Metro: Les Halles
Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor
€ = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses) Note: Does not include beverages

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-75); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-80); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (80+)


  3 - stars................................................................€................................................................. 2 - Bell

There's a whole other place in the 1er arrondissement that I haven't really explored. A friend invited us for a lunch, and I was excited about going since it's a few doors down from one of my favorite wine bars "O-Chateau".  It's a relatively small restaurant, but they do have sitting upstairs. My guess is that they could easily accommodate 30 people. 





They have a special lunch menu for 15€ for an entrée + plat or a plat + dessert. These were all very, very reasonable prices, and they didn't have an extensive selection, but as most know, I prefer a small menu done right, then lots of items done poorly. 











ENTRÉES:

Two us got the "Salad au lard, oeuf poache et noix" (Salad with bacon, poached eggs and nuts).  The salad was good. The eggs perfectly poached and the bacon was nice and crispy like I like it!  As salads go, this was a very good salad, but nothing out of the ordinary. 










One person got the "Velouté de potiron" (Cream of pumpkin soup), I'm not a big fan of pumpkin soup, so I deferred to our companion.  He stated it was good, but a bit too thick and because pumpkin really doesn't have much flavor, he said it could've used more spices, but overall he thought it was a good dish!


PLATS:

Three of us had the "Filet de haddock poché, lait de coco aux agrumes" (Poached haddock fillet, coconut milk with citrus).  The haddock was "dried and salted" which is a normal way to preserve haddock. So, it was re-constituted. At first bite I thought, wow this is salty; however, mixing it with the accompanying mashed potatoes, vegetables and scooping it up the sauce with a hint of coconut flavoring and citrus, it was quite tasty and enjoyable. So, overall, this was also a good dish, but nothing extraordinary. 






One friend had the "Saumon gravlax, creme aux herbes fraiche" (Gravlax salmon, creme fraiche with herbs).  It was a simple, good dish and it was served with a nice salad of different greens! It was good.





DESSERTS:


As usual, I got the cheese plate. This was one of my favorite cheeses "Saint Marcellin". Normally the cheese is served at room temperature, so that it sort of melts in your mouth. Unfortunately, the cheese was served a little too cold for my liking, but I still loved the cheese.





Two had the "Soupe de clémentines à l'anis" (Clementine soup with anise).  Slices of clementines with an accompanying broth of anise. They thought the flavors combined well and both loved this dessert!





SUMMARY: 



This is a good place to go for lunch. The food is by no means extraordinary, but what they do serve is done very well. And, for the price you can't beat it. With 2-bottles of  "Ventous", 2-glasses of sauvignon blanc, 2-coffees and a brandy, our bill came to 77€ per couple or 38.50€ per person!

Would I go back, sure, porquoi pas? It's good food for a reasonable price.

Wednesday, April 2, 2014

Le Colimaçon -- Restaurant Review


44 Rue Vielle du Temple
Tel: 06-27-18-08-07
Web: www.le-colimacon.fr
Metro: Line 1 Hôtel de Ville

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor
€ = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-75); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-80); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (80+)

  4.5 - Star..............................................................€€................................................................. 2 - Bell

I have to be honest, I normally do not like eating in "Le Marais" (3eme & 4eme), since I find it geared towards the tourist and oftentimes the food is pre-made and not good.  But in celebration of our friend's return to Paris, I searched for a restaurant in the Marais since it was a Sunday and a fun day just to window shop. This area is the only shopping area open in Paris on a Sunday.  I came across this restaurant and the menu looked good so I made reservations through "La Fourchette" .  

The restaurant is small, although there are also seats upstairs.  Originally we were given a table by the stairs, so I asked if we could transfer by the window and they accommodated us. There is a huge black-board with the menu listed. It was quite extensive.




First order of the day were apéros. They had these house apéros made with a specially fermented white wine and mint. It looked like "mojitos", but we were pleasantly surprised how refreshing they were and not overly sweet as most mojitos are in Paris. So, this was a good start.

As we were perusing the wine, the waiter took his time to describe wine we were interested in.  In fact, he asked what range we would like to pay, and even had us taste different wines and gave us a quick lessons on the nuances of the different wines.  We got the sancerre blanc at 35€. Our wait person also spent alot of time describing the menu to us, and gave us his recommendations.

ENTRÉES:  


Two of us ordered an entrée.  I ordered the "Morilles a la crème" (Morel mushrooms in cream).  It was served in a small cooper pot.   This was a very, very tasty first course.  Our waiter told us that the morels were sourced locally. They were covered with a lot of cream. Although extremely tasty with all the cream, I found it a tad too rich for my taste, but I did enjoy it none-the-less. Not recommended for those who are lactose-intolerant.






One ordered the "Tartare Imperial de Mers et son duo d’argumes" (tartare of fish served with two types of citrus).  This was a beautifully presented dish. It was also quite delicious, very fresh and had the perfect balance of the fattiness of the salmon and the citrus. It was a hit and I can see it being a summer staple. 





Plats:

I ordered the "Cuisse de lapin farcie aux pleurottes foie gras, lard" (Rabbit leg stuffed with foie gras oyster mushrooms, bacon).  I found this interesting as I don't normally like to eat rabbit because I find them very "boney", and usually masked with lots of cream. This intrigued me because it was roasted and boneless.  The stuffed legs were delicious and quite tender. The oyster mushrooms with the bacon brought it to a whole new level. And, it wasn't full of cream, the sauce was light and delicious. The salad had a nice citrus touch to cut down on some of the fattiness. The accompanied mashed potatoes were nothing special, but overall the rabbit was delicious and I certainly would order it again.


Our friend ordered the "Filet de boeuf façon Rossini" (Fillet of beef Rossini).  He ordered it "à point", medium rare. It was topped with a few bits of foie gras and the dish was absolutely delicious.  It was accompanied by a pan roasted scalloped potatoes with almonds that were absolutely delicious. It was crispy on the exterior and tender sweet on the inside.  Overall, this whole dish with the potato dish was very good. 





Lastly our friend ordered the "Filet de Bar et sauce aux deux agrumes" (Sea bass with two citrus sauces).  This was actually the simplest of the 3-dishes we ordered. The fish was very moist and the citrus sauce was very mild. The accompanying carrots with haricot vert was extremely sweet and tasty. Another winner.




We opted not to have dessert since we were all so full. We did, however, order some coffee.

SUMMARY:

Although it's in a very busy tourist area in the Marais, what a great find. I was prepared to dislike the food, since I've never had a good dining experience until now in that area and go there primarily for salads, felafel or pizzas.  The service is beyond excellent. They like speaking English, especially our wait person who wanted to practice, which was fine with us.  He took time to describe the dishes as well as the different wine options.

I would highly recommend this restaurant. We gave the food an overall 4, but with the outstanding service we gave it an additional 0.5, one of my highest ratings. For 3 people, a bottle of wine and coffees, our bill came to 47€ per person!

Monday, March 31, 2014

Chameleon -- Restaurant Review


70, rue René Boulanger 75010 Paris 
Tél. : 01 42 08 99 41
http://www.chameleonrestaurant.fr/
Metro: Line 4 or 8 (Strasbourg St. Denis)
Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor
€ = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-75); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-80); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (80+)

  4 - Star..............................................................€€............................................................2 - Bell

This restaurant is located in the 10eme arrondissement, a lively working class neighborhood that is very active with young people.   We truly were able to find a gem in this part of town. Once you step into Chameleon the first thing you notice is the spaciousness.  The tables were not all crammed together, so even though there may be alot of people, because of the spaciousness you can speak to and hear your dinner companions.  The tables were covered with white linen, linen napkins and every table accoutrement was perfect placed. And, amazingly they had a 'full bar,' but I stuck with wine.




This is the working epicenter of the restaurant with a wine and cocktail bar situated in front of a very open kitchen. So, if you wanted you can watch them prepare your food.







The menu was quite simple. You had a selection of 3-entrées, 3-plats, and 3 desserts. I actually prefer a smaller menu for a couple a reasons: #1 it's easier to make a selection, #2 it's a sign they only do a few things, presumably doing them well. And, the menu had a nice variety despite the smaller selection. Lunch menu changes daily, whereas the dinner menu changes weekly.

ENTRÉES



Two of us had the "Poitrine de cochon" (pork belly) -- I love pork belly and they made this right. It was sweet, juicy and luscious. Typically, they brine the pork to keep it moist and it can be very, very salty if not rinsed properly. This was not the case, it was not at all salty and had a nice balance of sugar as a result of the lacquering. It was accompanied by a squash and dandelion greens. Overall, an excellent dish. 




One person had the "Asperges vertes rôties au beurre d’algues, ventrêche kintoa et parmesan"
(green asparagus roasted with algae butter, Basque bacon, parmesan); our companion  said it was her favorite dish of the evening. I had a bite of it, and it was cooked well accompanied by little bits of salty, smoky bacon, which enhanced the sweetness of the asparagus. Another hit!

One person had the "Bonite oignons pailles crémeux, pousses de moutarde et chou kale" (bonito, yellow onion crémeux, mustard sprouts & kale cabbage)He liked the dish, but did not like accompanying onion sauce, it had almost a generic brown "gravy" taste, such as those bought in a bottle in the US.  I had a taste of the fish, and it was cooked to my liking, crispy on the outside and moist and rare on the inside, and the accompanying vegetables were delicious. Now if they can only fix that sauce!





PLATS:

I had the "Pigeon de Mesquer choux verts, pleurotes fumées, piquillos' (Mesquer’s pigeon, green cabbage, smoked oyster mushrooms, piquillos).  As typical, there's not much meat on a pigeon, but what there was, was delicious, albeit extremely salty for my palate. However, one of our guest liked the saltiness. If you're hungry, or adverse to alot of salt, this is not the dish for you! I would rate it just OK!







One person had the "Selle d’agneau
condiment dattes et citron confit, cébettes grillées et carottes colorées confites" 
(saddle of lamb, dates & lemon confit condiment, grilled spring onions, confites colored carrots). I had a bite of it and it was delicious, moist and perfectly cooked. And, the accompanying turnips with the grilled green onions just enhanced the meat perfectly. This was a winner.








And, two got the "Saint-Pierre navet boule d’or, betteraves de couleurs, chutney pommes gingembre" (John Dorry fish filets, golden turnips & colored beets, apple ginger chutney). A very simply cooked fish, sometimes the most difficult thing to cook are the most simplelist dishes, but they did it right.  It came with turnips, the turnips had a nice taste but slightly on the bitter side.






DESSERTS:




As usual I had the plate of cheese. There was a real nice collection of 2-chevres, a comte and a tomme de savoie cheese. As I always say, you can't go wrong with cheese in France. 








Two people got the "Pamplemousse corse 
crémeux pamplemousse, cédrat de Sicile confit, meringue corsican" (grapefruit crémeux, sicilian citron confit, meringue). On arrival, it was not what they expected at all In fact, the meringue was a large "vacherin"  (baked egg white cups) filled with a marshmallow type of cream and some dried fruit candy. It was a bit disappointing. 






One person had the "Cheesecake 
mangue, mélisse, granité citron vert"
(cheesecake with mango, lemon balm, lime granita).  Now this cake will definitely fool you. First of all it's not an "American" cheesecake. It was their interpretation of a cheesecake made with what tasted like  "fromage blanc".  One complaint about the dish, was that it was not sweet enough for a dessert. So, if you're craving for an American style cheese cake, this is not for you. It's a miss unless you like sour, not very sweet desserts!


SUMMARY:

Overall the entrées and plats were great, with only 2-minor, minor misses being the sauce on the bonito fish and my pigeon being way too salty.  With the exception of the cheese plate, the desserts need some work.  The cheesecake needs to be called something else and perhaps made sweeter. And, the pamplemoose needs to be described that it comes with a vacherin not a meringue, I for one am not a fan of vacherin. The service is excellent, and the menu comes with an english translation. 

Would we go out of our way to come back? absolutely.  With a bottle of Samur and a pichet of rosé our bill came to 93€ per couple!







Tuesday, March 18, 2014

Randy's Easy fruit tart -- Recipe



Randy's Easy fruit tart

With spring here and summer fast approaching, I resurrected an old recipe that I concocted for a quick dessert that can be varied by what fruits are in season, or what you prefer. I prefer the Easy Bake butter crust in French known as sablé, but if you don’t want to hassle with baking use the graham cracker crust, recipe to follow:

Tart pan:
I like to use an 12 or 13-inch removable bottom tart pan, preferably non-stick. 

No-Bake crust: 
1 3/4 graham crackers
1/4 - 1/2 cup ground nuts (your choice and optional)
1/2 cup melted butter
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon (optional)
Simply mix the ingredients and press into a tart pan.  Let it cool before filling. You can even refrigerate it to facilitate the cooling!

Easy Baked butter crust
1 1/3 cup flour
1-stick butter melted (8 ounces)
1-egg yolk
3-tbs sugar
A pinch of salt (about 1/8 teaspoon)
1/4 cup finely ground nuts (your choice and optional)
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon (optional)
I prefer to use a food processor.  Place flour in food processor, slowly pulse in melted butter, then the egg yolk, sugar, salt, nuts and cinnamon if so desired. Immediately press it into a tart pan. Place in refrigerator for a minimum of half-an-hour! In the meantime, preheat oven to 375ºF. Once crust is cooled remove from refrigerator and, bake in the oven for 30-45 minutes, until lightly browned. Let tart shell cool at room temperature before filling.

Note: you can use store-bought crust, but remember to "dock" (prick) crust before baking to prevent puffing!

Filling: 
Use your favorite lemon curd recipe, or pastry cream. For the tart pictured above, I used a 'no bake' cream cheese filling, which is an easy, easy base to make and can be flavored with a myriad of different extracts, e.g., vanilla, almond, mint etc:

1.5 packages of cream cheese (room temperature)
1/3 cup sugar
pinch of salt (1/8 teaspoon)
1-cup whipped cream
1/2 teaspoon of extract of your choice. Use an extract flavor that will enhance the fruit. For example, I normally like using a lemon or orange extract for strawberries and kiwis, but for blueberries, I like to use almond extract. 


Fruit: 
You can select the fruit of your choice (e.g., strawberries, plums, grapes, raspberries, melons etc). Fresh fruit in season is always best.

Glaze: 
¼ cup Apricot jelly or Grape jelly melted with 1 tbs of water, microwave for 10 seconds and blend well. Note:  jelly works best, but if you use a fruit jam, strain it before glazing.

Instructions:
Using a mixer, mix cream cheese sugar and salt on medium speed until creamy. Then slowly add whipped cream and extract, increase speed to medium high until the mixture is nice and fluffy, like frosting, but firmer.  Spread into cooled tart shell  and smooth out surface until even. Arrange fruit on top of filling as you like, use your imagination. With a pastry brush, glaze with melted jam. 

It's important that you chill this well before serving, minimum 2-3 hours. You can actually make this dessert a day ahead. 

Once chilled. Loosen bottom of pan and remove. You can easily slide the tart onto a serving dish! 

A variation, top with toasted nuts






Monday, March 17, 2014

Randy's Filipino fried lumpia -- Recipe

Randy's Filipino Lumpia

This is one of my most requested recipes. There are so, so, many ways to prepare lumpias.  It is believed lumpia, as well as all Asian egg rolls, originated in China. Everyone has their own version. For example in the Philippines the skin wrapper is much, much thinner, almost as thin as a filo dough, where as the Vietnamese use rice paper, and the Chinese version uses a much thicker wrapper. The fillings can be as varied as your taste.  I too vary it from time to time, depending on what’s available.

So this recipe is more of a guideline that you can alter by omitting or substituting any of the ingredients. For example, I have friends that are vegetarians, so simply omit any animal protein, and use vegetarian oyster sauce.

The key is to have your  "mis-en-place" ready and set to go, because there will be a lot of prep work, mostly chopping, but the cooking process is relatively easy. You will definitely need a wok for preparing the filling and/or frying the lumpias later.

"mis-en-place"

 Creating the “mis-en-place”, try to cut the following into uniform sizes:

  •  40-wrappers. You can use any wrapper you prefer. I prefer the wafer thin Filipino version, but if it’s unavailable, use what’s available. It should be defrosted in the refrigerator overnight if it was previously frozen. Once thawed, keep it covered under a damp kitchen towel to keep it moist and pliable. Also, they will have stuck together, so they all need to be separated. If you are using Vietnamese rice paper, it must first be softened with water.
For the adventurous who would like to make their own lumpia wrapper, check out this video. "making home made lumpia wrappers"
  •       1-2 tablespoons of cooking oil, I use peanut oil
  •       1-cup chopped yellow onions
  •       1-tablespoon garlic
  •      ½ tablespoon minced fresh ginger
  •       ½ teaspoon turmeric powder (optional)
  •       1-cup carrots chopped or julienne
  •       1-cup green string beans chopped or julienne
  •       1-cup chopped, and cubed mushrooms. Your choice. I used dried shitake mushrooms that I’ve reconstituted.
  •       ½-medium sized cabbage (your choice of cabbage, but not purple), shredded
  •       1-4 stalks green onions, chopped or julienne
  •       2-3 cups bean sprouts
  •       1-tight handful of chopped cilantro, you can use just the leafs or both the leafs and the stem, your choice
  •       1-egg white and 1 tablespoon of water for an egg wash glue
  •       1-2 cups of oil for frying, any oil except strong oils such as olive oil. I used peanut oil


Flavoring:
  •       ¼ cup of oyster sauce
  •      3-tablespoons sweet Thai chili sauce, (this can now be sold at most grocery stores in the Asian section), substitute with catchup and chilies if you can not find this
  •       1-teaspoon dried red chili flakes (use less or more depending on how spicy you want it)
  •       Salt and pepper to taste 




 
Protein:
This can be omitted if you are vegetarian, or substitute it with firm tofu.  You can use any protein you wish shredded or ground. I used pork, but if you keep kosher, you can use chicken or beef and omit the shrimp.
  •       1-lb ground pork
  •      1-cup shelled shrimp, e.g., bay shrimp.
  
PROCEDURE:
Heat a wok on a medium-high stove, then add the oil. Once it starts to slightly smoke, add your yellow onions and continue to chow, until the onions are translucent. Then add the garlic, ginger, red chili flakes, and the turmeric if you choose to use it.

NOTE: I add turmeric and ginger into as many dishes as I can, because of the health benefits of these spices! But they can easily be omitted!

Now add the ground pork, continue “chowing” until the pork is cooked, once cooked add the oyster sauce and sweet chili sauce. Mix well, then add carrots and continue to cook until the carrots are “al dente”. Then add string beans, mushrooms, and shredded cabbage.  Lastly add bean sprouts and green onions, and cilantro, incorporate it well, but it’s not necessary to continue cooking it, turn off the wok, the residual heat will slightly cook the remaining ingredients. Adjust for seasoning by adding salt or pepper to taste.

Note: the filling must be cooled to facilitate wrapping. Once cooled, place it in a colander to remove the accumulated liquid, you can keep the liquid for e.g., soups.

Now onto wrapping the lumpia. It’s fairly simple, it’s easier to see how it’s done rather than me trying to explain it. Prepare your “egg white glue” by simply beating in a small bowl the egg whites with a tablespoon of water.

Please refer to this video.


Once wrapped you’re ready to fry them. You can also at this point freeze them for later use, and fry them directly from the freezer.



Frying:

You can use a wok, a frying pan, or an electric deep fryer. You just need enough oil to cover ¾ of the lumpia when immersed in the oil.  Heat up oil until it comes to about 350-375F. Fry it for approximately 3-5 minutes on each side or until golden brown. Remove the lumpias and drain them with a paper towel. If you are frying them directly from the freezer, they may need to be cooked a little longer.

And, they’re ready to eat. Serve them with a dipping sauce of your choice. I like making a small dipping sauce of rice vinegar, chilies, fish sauce, and lime with a touch of sugar.

Bon appétit and Happy Cooking!



Tuesday, March 11, 2014

Chez Fred -- Restaurant Review


190 bis, boulevard Pereire - Paris 17ème
Metro: 
 Porte-Maillot or Bus PC1 or PC3
Tel: 
01.45.74.20.48
Closed Sundays
Website: 
http://www.bestrestaurantsparis.com/en/restaurant-paris/chez-fred.html
Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor
€ = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)
1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-75); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-80); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (80+)
  4 - Star..............................................................€€............................................................2 - Bell

We normally don't go to the 17eme for meals, since it's across town and takes a minimum of 45-minutes.  But we love trying new restaurants that our good friend J recommends we try. It's an easy enough place to find; it's very close to "Palais des congrès de Paris".  

As you enter the restaurant, on the left is a salad bar, not common in Bistros.




The inside of the restaurant was actually quite inviting. The restaurant has been around a very long time. In fact, our friend J mentioned that his friend used to go there as a child and it was particularly popular for a family week-end meal.  The restaurant is now owned by Alain Piazza with Jean-François Robert at the helm.  




It was decorated with interesting antique "bric-à-brac", such as military hats and puppets on the wall. There was even an antique ceramic oven and a cooper wood burning stove. So, lots of interesting things to catch your eyes.



This is a typical Lyonnaise style of cooking, wherein some dishes can be quite heavy with cream. So, I had to be very careful since I am lactose intolerant.

Entrées:




Two had the "salad gésier confit".  Gésiers are gizzards. I loved this dish. The gésiers were served warm and whole. Typically they are sliced and I've only had them cold in a salad up until today. It was served over mixed greens with a light vinaigrette dressing.  JJ thought it may have been a tad salty, but I thought they were perfect for my palette. 







I ordered the "Os à moelle, gros sel" (bone marrow with coarse salt). I figured what the hell, I'll have something rich since I won't be having a creamy dish for my "plat".  The plate was screaming hot. The waiter will warn you that it's hot, but I wanted to see how hot it really was, so I lightly touched, and it's HOT! In fact, it stayed hot the whole time I had the plate.  The bone was split length-wise rather than the normal round, so it made scooping out the marrow very easy.  It was served with toast, and I added just a dab of dijon mustard to the toast to cut the fat a little and then topped it with the marrow. It was delicious, but it is rich!

Plats:



Two had the "La quenelle de brochet bisque de crustacés" (Pike quenelles shellfish bisque). This is a very typical Lyonnaise dish. It's basically finely shredded fish folded into eggs and poached, sort of like quenelle shaped "fish dumplings".  And, the sauce is typically a bisque made from shellfish such as crab or shrimp.  It looks enormous because of all the eggs used for the quenelles.  I only took a little bite of it since I am lactose intolerant. The flavors were good, but I personally found the quenelles heavier than I would've normally expected.  My guess is they used more whole eggs than egg whites, and a heavier hand with the flour, so a bit of a heavier texture, albeit not bad, but heavy! It was served with a side of rice. 



I had the recommended special of the day, "gigot d'agneau" (leg of lamb).  As typical in France it was served rare. This is a personal preference, but initially I would've liked mine maybe cooked a little bit more.  However, as I started gorging on the meat I started liking it rare and quite enjoyed it. It was very tasty, and served with a light demi-glace sauce. It was quite good and it was served with "flageolet beans".



Desserts:


The food was quite heavy for me, since the portions seemed larger than typical.  So, I skipped my usual dessert of cheese, and the two J's shared the "gateaux aux chocolat" (chocolate cake), I didn't have any but the two J's said it was quite good. JJ said the cake had more of the consistency of a heavy mousse than an actual cake. It sat atop a tasty caramel sauce. The cake seemed to be on a base of crumbled "speculoos".




Summary:

I'm typically not a fan of Lyonnaise style cooking. I find it a bit heavy for me, and the creams are hard for me to digest. But if you like Lyonnaise style cooking, then this is the place to go. It was definitely worth schlepping out to the 17eme to eat at this restaurant. They have daily specials. 



For 3-people, a soda, 3-pots of Loire Anjou (Cabernet Franc), and 2-coffees our bill came to 169€. 

NOTE: There are a few outdoor tables for al-fresco dining as well!